Oh Sandakphu, you beauty

You have such an abundance of peace, tranquility, and wildness, with immaculate beauty inspiring awe and a deep appreciation for solitude. One such place is Sandakphu-Phalut, where you can witness four of the world's highest peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga.

Trekking at Sandakphu Phalut is a stunning experience. For me, trekking isn’t just about moving from camp to camp; it’s about embracing curiosity, getting a little lost, and learning that self-discovery is a journey. It’s a lifestyle that teaches self-belief, inspires better living, and evokes a wide range of emotions.

Sandakphu, the highest peak in West Bengal, stands on the Singalila Ridge. The 65-kilometer trek over six days was moderately challenging and required a high level of fitness. Our journey began in Chennai, with some flying directly to Bagdogra and others stopping in Kolkata. From Bagdogra, we traveled to Siliguri, where we spent the night before heading to our base camp in Sepi.

The next morning, we took a cab to Sepi, near the Indo-Nepal border. The route, dotted with military outposts and tea plantations, promised an interesting journey, meeting trekkers from various states, and experiencing mountain life for the next eight days.

After a delicious lunch of thukpa, momos, and chowmein, we continued to Sepi, a serene hamlet in Singalila National Park. India Hikes provided excellent accommodations at the base camp, with stunning wooden frames around the house and a stream in the background, creating an idyllic setting for the adventure ahead.

Once we had settled in, we engaged in a brief discussion with our trek leader, Rishi. We discussed the itinerary for the upcoming six days and took care of the initial formalities. Moreover, we took the opportunity to introduce ourselves to one another, as we hailed from various parts of the country.

After a while, everyone went to bed with uneasiness and excitement-filled hearts about how they were going to endure those big fragile mountains again, especially with each day having an average of 10 kilometers to trek.

The next day morning, we had our breakfast; then at around 8am, we did our stretching. With our group photo taken as per tradition, we commenced our journey from Sepi to our next campsite, Samanden.

Everyone trekked at their own pace, guided by enthusiastic and welcoming local guides like Keil Jong. The mountain people were incredibly humble, always greeting us with a smile, and the culture, especially the prayer flags believed to spread blessings and compassion, was fascinating.

Our trail led us to the hanging Srikola bridge, used by both bikers and walkers. Beyond the bridge, a steep, zigzag cement road posed a challenge for many. Passing through vibrant Himalayan villages with colorful wooden houses adorned with flowers, we eventually reached our lunch point.

While the food was being prepared, some of us roamed around while others took a quick nap. After lunch, Rishi paired us with buddies to foster group collaboration, asking us to learn about each other and share our findings at dinner in Samanden.

My buddy's story was intriguing. During the lockdown, he noticed a woman wearing an India Hikes high-altitude t-shirt and asked if she hiked. She replied yes, having completed 2-3 treks, and their shared passion for hiking began there.

After our talk, we hiked into enchanting pine forests, emerging to the breathtaking Samanden Valley. Samanden, resilient and picturesque, featured a beautiful football pitch where we watched locals play. We spent the night in a cozy homestay, enjoying delectable local cuisine.

The trek from Samanden to Molley was particularly strenuous, with the trail being the longest and an altitude gain of nearly 3000 feet. We began in the dense forest area of Samanden Valley, facing a steep ascent. The pine forests, dark and sturdy, offered some respite with occasional sunlight filtering through.

Initially, we tried to maintain the same pace but soon divided into groups: fast walkers up front, medium pacers in the middle, and slower ones at the back. In the middle group, I trekked with a few others, including a determined 14-year-old boy. Despite obvious discomfort, he maintained his pace and mental stability, impressively balancing with his trekking pole. Kudos to his parents for bringing him on this challenging trek; he learned that familiarizing oneself with discomfort builds resilience.

My knees ached, and I felt exhausted. We took a few breaks, enjoying the forest’s canopy, chirping birds, and the cool breeze. After several stops, we reached our lunch spot, had our packed meals, and continued to Molley through dense forests of pine and bamboo, with rhododendrons beginning to bloom.

After several hours, we arrived at Molley, a campsite near a forest wood house and an SSB (Sashastra Seema Bal) camp. The SSB maintains peace along the India-Nepal border. Under dim lights, a starry sky, and a dull moon, the scene held a touch of magic.

Molley to Sabargram via Phalut

We began our journey from Molley to Sabargram, just 2 km away. As we left the forest zone and reached the flat surface, we were awestruck by the sight of the Sleeping Buddha, a formation created by the Kanchenjunga family of peaks that looks like Lord Buddha dozing above the clouds. We lingered there, captivated, while some trekkers moved ahead to Sabargram.

Our next leg was a long trek from Sabargram to Phalut and back, covering a total of 14 km. Initially, the trail from Sabargram to Phalut seemed manageable with its undulating gradients, passing through rhododendron and pine forests, vast meadows, and offering views of the Kanchenjunga family on our right and the Everest family on our left.

However, as hours passed, we found ourselves separated into groups. The sun was relentless, and with no tree cover, the heat made the trek arduous. We moved slowly, taking frequent breaks, each step a reminder of our determination and strength.

At one point, a 14-year-old boy, one of the front runners, returned to motivate his mother, who was struggling at the 5 km mark. His encouragement helped her persevere, and together they made it to Phalut.

After a challenging 7 km, we finally reached Phalut, the last to arrive. Near the summit, a forest camp lodge offered coffee and refreshments. Though the final 500 meters to the peak were exceedingly hard, the experience was ultimately rewarding and enriching.

The view from there was really staggering; you could see the sleeping Buddha right in front of you, and I was awestruck. Even though I was sitting after clickinga few images - this sudden change from wrinkled brows to smiling lips - I realized that happiness is hardly a long-lasting mood. Instead, happiness appears surprisi

ngly in small times like now, when life may not be perfect, or maybe far from it, but here I am, still standing, perhaps a bit exhausted, but eager to see what tomorrow has in store for me.

We all had our packed sandwiches and started to descend back to Sabargaram.

Keil Jeng found a shortcut for us, although a challenging one; after a half-hour of really rapid walking, we succeeded in passing the group. We were met by a couple of yaks at the gap.

Keil Jong; His laughter is as boundless as his love for the mountains and its culture, making the trek with him an unforgettable experience. Whether scaling peaks or sharing stories, Keil Jong is the kind of person who brings joy and excitement to every adventure.

From this point on, the hike became a bit more challenging, and at one intersection, it practically had a 45-degree incline. The sun blazing away to glory did not help either.

Sabargram to Aal

The night was tough for everyone after a challenging trek. We woke up to catch the sunrise behind our tent, an eternal rush of excitement. The sun rose directly opposite us while the moon also graced us with its presence.

After breakfast, we began our trek to Aal, following a semi-motorable route leading to Nepal. Along the way, we met Pawan and Prabhas, true mountain enthusiasts and walking encyclopedias of trekking knowledge. Their stories inspired us to book another trek with India Hikes.

The route to Aal ran parallel to a steeper trek path. Despite the constant descents making the top seem further, walking through open green meadows was refreshing. We paused for lunch and continued towards our tea house for the night. We stopped at a shepherd's hut, tasting creamy yak milk, a unique experience.

At the tea house, we took a short nap. In the evening, a campfire was lit in the dining area, and we enjoyed spicy yet delicious Nepali noodles. We felt a strong sense of connection as we gathered, our conversations ranging from light-hearted banter to serious discussions on environmental consciousness.

The evening turned magical when we spontaneously broke into song. Keil Jong provided a guitar, and we harmonized to A.R. Rahman songs in Hindi and Tamil. The atmosphere was filled with unity and joy. A Sherpa joined us, singing favorite Hindi songs like "Kabira," "Channa Mereya," and "Tum Hi Ho," making the night unforgettable.

We went to bed with smiles, excited for the next day, unaware that tomorrow was my birthday. At sunrise, a few of us visited a viewpoint to glimpse the Sleeping Buddha and Mt. Everest. Our trek leader, Rishi, handed out postcards for us to write messages.

Standing before the tallest mountain on my 28th birthday, I felt the purest, most grateful joy.

The wind blew gently, and the chill in the air blended beautifully with the last warmth of the setting sun, creating a delightful atmosphere. One of the best feelings in the world is watching the sunrise from a mountain with the largest peak on one side. In that moment, our hearts fill with love, and the pain we've repressed fades away.

We are inspired to inspire, love to feel loved, and let go of the notion of being the doer. In this surrender, we find salvation, regardless of the futility of it all.

Aal to Gurdum via Sandakphu

After finishing our letters and taking photos, we set off for Gurdum. Rishi promised us a luxurious stay and we eagerly anticipated a hot shower. The trail from Sandakphu to Gurdum features a steep incline with two route options: a longer, gradual ascent through Nepal, or the shorter, steeper path. We chose the steeper one.

Stopping for lunch in a cottage within a bamboo forest, I continued my trek slowly and steadily, reflecting on my journey. Upon reaching our luxury accommodation, we enjoyed aloo paratha, coffee, and samosas. Rishi held a heartfelt feedback session before we gathered for a lively game of Mafia, savoring our final night in the mountains.

The next morning, we trekked to Sepi through dense forests and picturesque hamlets. After three hours of walking, we re-entered civilization, greeted by the bridge marking the journey’s end. Cabs were ready, and we bid farewell to our guides—Rishi, and Keil Jong who taught me the importance of living in the moment and embracing life’s fragmented yet meaningful experiences.

The trek to Sandakphu-Phalut was about savoring small moments: green valleys, wildflowers, the first rays of the sun, local culture, and the breathtaking views of Everest and other peaks. 

It was a journey of personal growth and cherished memories, embodying the divine energy of Sandakphu.

-Praveenkumar Dhanushkotti